Diamonds – Man-Made Versus Natural Mined Stones

When considering the purchase of diamond jewelry, it is wise to understand the differences between a laboratory produced gem and a natural stone.

Old methods of synthetically creating diamonds produced stones that were far inferior to natural gems. Cubic zirconia, as they are often called, were looked down upon by the jewelry industry. However, modern technology now allows scientists to produce gem-quality cultured diamonds in laboratories all over the world. Lab created stones take a matter of days to grow, rather than the millions of years that are required by nature. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the leading research and grading body in gemology, recognizes some of these lab produced stones as real diamonds.

There are two basic ways that man-made gems are created. HPHT (high pressure high temperature) is a process that has been used for several decades. While this method does simulate the natural way that mother earth makes these precious stones, and physically, visually, and chemically they are almost exactly the same as those found in the earth, these synthetic stones can be identified by a trained gemologist using standard gem-testing equipment.

The newer process, called CVD (chemical vapor deposition), grows gems at low pressure and relatively low temperatures. It produces crystals that are not only suitable for faceting for jewelry purposes: they are also “purer” than those grown the HPHT way, and are more difficult to detect.

Many people purchase created gems in order to save money. However, the amount saved will vary based on the type of stone that is chosen. Color or “fancy” diamonds, which are quite rare in nature, are far more available via lab created gems. While this comparative abundance lowers the price as compared to natural stones, high quality man-made gems are certainly not nearly as inexpensive as cubic zirconia.

A growing number of environmentalists and advocates of social responsibility are openly declaring a preference for lab produced stones, similar to how some segments of the population prefer faux fur to hides of animals. In many cases, it is difficult to know the exact sourcing of a natural stone. This is problematic because gems mined in war zones to raise money for civil wars and terrorism, commonly referred to as “blood diamonds,” comprise up to ten percent of the total supply. In addition, mining processes are often damaging to the environment. Purchasing lab created stones removes the environmental concerns as well as the war and terrorism concerns, and saves on cost at the same time.

If the authenticity of a stone is in question, there are some basic methods that can help distinguish natural from created stones. Lower price is one sign, and another is color. Most natural colored diamonds have colors that are less vivid and bright than synthetically produced gems. Also, most natural stones contain small mineral deposits called inclusions. These show up as dark spots under a jeweler’s loupe. While flawless natural stones do exist, they are rare and very expensive. Thus, a lack of inclusions may be a sign that a stone is lab produced, but is not conclusive proof.

If a jeweler is advertising “cultured” gems, they are probably created. As with cultured pearls, this is a code word which means man has interfered with the natural process. Any reputable jeweler will be happy to inform customers as to which pieces contain lab produced stones.

More and more people are purchasing and enjoying lab created diamond jewelry, and there are lots of great reasons for them to do so — including the reduced cost, social and environmental concerns, and the pleasure of having a vividly colored stone of their very own.

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